Ultah si kucrut

Si kucrut ini pada belom tau yaa?
kayaknya juga ga perlu tau yaa ga penting banget dia ini siapa..
hahahahha bercanda deng.. lumayan penting laah keberadaanya.
yang jelas ini makhluk udah ikut di keluarga saya sejak tahun 1994,
awal gabung di keluarga saya tanggal 7 Januari 1994, dan sejak saat itu dia ikut gabung sama keluarga saya,

Awal dia bergabung di keluarga saya ukurannya kecil lho, tapi jangan salah walaupun kecil tapi ga ada imutnya babarblas,
jujur ini serius saya, kecilannya kayak kurang gizi lho, mana tumbuh bisul dimana-mana.. pokoknya ga banget,
tapi karena kebaikan keluarga saya dirawat dan di kasi makan akhirnya pas gede yaa ga kurang gizi lagi, ga banyak bisul lagi.

Penasaran sama si kucrut ini..
dia bukan peliharaan kok, hahahahaha ni penampakannya

Nah ini si kucrut adek saya...
hari ini 7 Januari dia ultah, hmmm... sebagai kakak yang baik dan benar saya akan mengucapkan...

Selamat ulang tahun de.
semoga sukses UASnya, panjang umur, sehat selalu, belajar yang bener di sono, jangan mentang-mentang jauh pacaran mulu *ups lo jomblo ya de? buakakakakak.....
otaknya semoga ga konslet lagi, pokoke sukses laah buat semuanya..
kalo libur mending balik aja ke rumah, ngapain ikut SP SP an..
kakak lo aja ga pernah SP lulus juga kok.. *ttg saya ga ikut SP itu bohong

HAPPY B'DAY DE Rima Ayuning Ratri

jawaban semua pertanyaan GR di baca yaa

Hmmmm .... iseng-iseng ngejawab aja, sekali-sekali saya sedikit GE-ER boleh laah yaa...
tapi soalnya ga saya tulis disini yaa cuma jawabanya aja,

hai juga.. alhamdulilah saya disini masih baik-baik saja,
masih lingkar perutnya ga berubah, tandanya saya sehat lho..
salam rindu juga buat kamu,
masa-masa sibuknya sii udah lewat, sekarang saatnya masa-masa galau santai.
hmmm kalo soal makan si saya selalu inget, hahhahaha apa aja masuk ke perut,
udah mulai diatur kok pola makan saya, saya ikut OCD (Ono Camilan Dipangan) hehehehe...
kalo begadang sampai pagi masih suka, apalagi kalo sapidi lagi ngebut, kan kamu masih inget ya..
iya saya harap ini buat saya, saya langsung merasa "hmmmm pasti buat saya nii" Ge Er yaa..
semua ga berubah kok, saya masih saya yang dulu, dan saya akan selalu jaga silaturahim ini ...

hai kamu juga... iyaa kamu yang disitu ga usah pura-pura ga denger,
nengok sini jalan-jalan ga jelas lagi yuuk..

Bebersih blog sambil inget-inget masa kuliah

Hussssh hussshhh (suara niup debu) bebersih blog saya nii udah berdebu banget...
maklum dulu cuma buat ngerjain tugas jaman masih kuliah, buat matakuliah soft skill
padahal saya ga pernah bikin cuma copas tapi sekarang blog saya akan ber transformasi, kasian udah lama banget ga terurus.

Ngomongin tentang kuliah saya merasa ditipu, kenapa saya merasa ketipu?, soalnya jaman masih SMA kalo saya liat sinetron-sinetron sama film-film tu kayaknya kuliah enak banget cuma belajar dikit sisanya main-main di taman, jalan-jalan ke mall, cabut ke puncak, pokoknya aseeeek bgt kalo kata anak sekarang,

Setelah saya menjalani, beuuuh ternyata semua itu bohoooong belaka, saya termasuk korban sinetron ternyata, kuliah itu berasa di kejar-kejar sama deadline tugas ini itu dll, ga ada tu jalan-jalan ke taman, ngemall juga bisa diitung sebulan sekali aja udah bagus, hmmm saya juga pernah cabut sampe ke puncak. itu soalnya kepepet.

Tapi sekarang setelah setaun lebih lulus kangen juga yaa masa-masa kuliah, kapan yaa bisa reuni, tapi kayaknya biar seru reuninya di kelas salemba dulu yaa.. ga usah di tempat-tempat yg gimana-gimana, simple tapi membawa semua memori kembali.

HOW TO DRIFT

1. Set up a cone in the middle of a safe area of tarmac. Drive up to the cone and rip the handbrake in an attempt to do a 180 degree handbrake turn. Practice this until you are no more, and no less than 180 degrees from when you started.
   
   
2. Learn how to counter-steer by ripping the handbrake from a speed of 30-40mph (anything less will cause an inadequate amount of momentum to get you around the cone) and trying to control the car to a destination until the car stops.
3. Increase speed of each of these things until you are comfortable
4. Try to do the 180 cone too.

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive and Manual Transmission

1. Find a car with both rear-wheel-drive and a manual transmission. Ideally it should be a sports car with as close to a 50/50 ratio as possible, and enough power to keep the tires spinning is ideal.
2. Head to an open area (i.e. an enclosed racetrack) safely free of pedestrians and motorists and police!

Hand brake technique

1. Accelerate and shift into a gear with room to rev. Second gear is generally used because it allows the widest variance of speed and is best for harnessing the engine's torque.
2. Push in the clutch.
3. Flick the steering wheel to the inside of the turn as if you were going to turn around it. While simultaneously pulling the hand brake.
4. Immediately put some pressure on the gas pedal, let out the clutch, and steer the car in the direction of the slide, using throttle to control the angle of the drift.
5. More Throttle will make the car turn more, and also move the car away from the turn center.
6. Less throttle will reduce angle, and allow the car to move towards the inside of the turn more freely.
7. You're drifting!

Clutch Kick technique

1. Used while you are already moving to increase angle and/or revive wheel spin.
2. While you are drifting, you may feel the car begin to lose its drift angle and power. If this happens, you can kick the clutch to attempt to revive to tires spinning speed. This is similar to powershifting, and you are in essence trying to 'chirp' the tires again and again.
3. Enter a drift.
4. while you still have the power put on, kick the clutch pedal in and out a few times as fast as you can until the car is drifting again.
5. end with your foot off of the pedal.
6. continue the drift, and when you feel the car begin to lose angle/power try to clutch kick again.

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Auto

1. Find a large, open area.
2. Accelerate to a speed of 20-30(depending on lot size and room)
3. If possible, lock the transmission into a low gear to provide maximum torque
4. Turn the wheel hard and floor it. You should feel the rear end slide around if this is done correctly. Only use full throttle to start the drift, after this you should use proper throttle control to continue through the corner.

Preparing to Drift with a Front Wheel Drive Car

1. Go to a large, open area.
2. Pull the handbrake or use the parking brake, riding it out the first time or two to get over your initial fear.
3. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot.
4. Drive up to it at speed (between 20 and 30 is desired).
5. Pull the hand brake and turn toward the cone. Immediately after you feel the back end come around, turn to the opposite direction. This is known as opposite lock.
6. Repeat the opposite lock at that speed until you can control your car well. Practice this for at least several weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do this on roadways. It is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)
7. Slowly increase speed until you are proficient in a speed you are comfortable with. Get to know that speed--you should never drift above that speed unless you are practicing.
8. Upgrade. At the same initial speed, flick the steering wheel opposite of the turn and swing it all the way into toward the CONE (not turn, you aren't ready at this stage). As before, when you feel the rear end come around, go to opposite lock.

Drifting with a Front Wheel Drive Car

1. Approach a turn at a comfortable speed, preferably in mid 2nd gear.
2. Pull the handbrake while turning into the corner, try not to lock the rear wheels.
3. You should still have the power on, try not to go less than 1/2 throttle at any time during the drift.
4. When you feel the car start to understeer, and lose angle, pull the ebrake harder.
5. When the car seems to turn too much, give it progressively more throttle, and release the handbrake some.
6. Don't tense up, just feel it.

Top ten basic diesel engine maintenance secrets

When it comes to maintenance how do diesel engine compare? Shown are some important highlights below.
1.) Unlike the gas engines, diesel engine has no electrical ignition parts like plugs, wires and moving part like distributor rotor which is subject to wear. These parts have a limited life and have to be changed on regular basis. Because of this, this is one chore we don’t have to worry about.
2.) Diesel engines run at higher compression pressure than gasoline engines. Where the highest compression for most high performance gasoline engines is close to 200 psi, diesel runs almost 3 times that pressure. As a consequence, more heat is generated putting extra demands on the engine cooling system. Study shows diesel engines usually fail 50% more on cooling related problems because it cannot stand prolong overheating. This is why the cooling system is a high maintenance issue.
3.) Gaskets on diesel on engines must be monitored closely since they are exposed to extreme operating conditions. If possible, all mounting bolts must be re-torque at regular intervals to prevent leaks especially in the combustion mounting areas. This is also true for coolant hoses which can deteriorate quickly if not secured properly. A lot of this is also caused by engine vibrations which is common on diesel engines. Always replace a leaky gasket as a set. If one starts to leak, the rest is not far behind.
4.) Since diesel engines use a lot of air, greater attention is paid to the engine air filtration. A common practice among truckers is to install a tell tale plastic indicator on the side of the air filter housing. The indicator changes color as soon as the engine filter element becomes dirty. Cooling this air is also critical especially if the engine is turbocharged. On some high end diesel engines they are fitted with after coolers to cool the air from turbo charger.
5.) The oil filter selection is very important on diesel engines because of the bad elements of sulfur residue and carbon created when fuel is not burn completely. The filter used must meet or exceed the OEM filter recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. This will ensure that all corrosive particles are removed from the oil. Using synthetic oil will also help because the additives in the oil will resist premature breakdown.
6.) Since the cooling system is critical on diesel engines, it is important that an early warning system should be in placed. Located in the dash panel, the early warning device must be easily seen and heard. If the engine has already overheated and it was not caught on time, the engine could be damaged. Most trucks have this feature in their dash and must be checked regularly to see if early warning system works.
7.) The fuel system maintenance is handled in various ways. Always keep the fuel tank full to prevent condensation from building inside the tank which can end up in the fuel injectors. This also requires changing the fuel filters as recommended to prevent moisture build up. Some diesel engines use 2 types of fuel filters to control the presence of moisture in the engine. Some fuel tanks are also design with one way breather vents for the moisture to escape. This vent should be checked occasionally if there is a suspicion that it is restricted.
8.) Diesel engine has very little carbon monoxide, a poisonous gas common to gasoline engines. However, it produces a lot of black soot which is the result of incomplete combustion. Most of this is caused by dirty injectors and faulty injection timing that inject too much fuel. To ward this off, glow plugs are use to heat the combustion chamber to assist in burning the fuel. These glow plugs must be checked especially before winter season.
9.) During winter, diesel engines are normally hard to start and the best way to remedy this is to install an electrical heater to the cylinder block. Another way is to install a heater element in series with the heater hose. In extreme cases of hard starting, a starting fluid is sprayed on combustion chamber but use it sparingly to prevent scoring the cylinder walls at higher rpm.
10.) To prevent engine cylinder block scoring, avoid prolong idle of your diesel engines. A very common habit among drivers especially in winter... diesel engines are made to idle for long hours to keep the cab warm. When diesel engines are run longer in cold temperatures, insufficient lubrication to the piston wall is the result which might lead to piston scoring. It is better off shutting it down and having it plugged in to a coolant heater which is a common practice used for gasoline vehicles in Canada.
With the cost of fuel rising with no end in sight, diesel engine is a good alternative to gasoline engines that must be considered. Knowing the basic diesel engine maintenance is essential if you want to save money in vehicle operation and cost.

DIRECT AND INDIRECT INJECTION DIESEL

Indirect injection

Main article: Indirect injection

An indirect injection diesel engine delivers fuel into a chamber off the combustion chamber, called a pre-chamber or ante-chamber, where combustion begins and then spreads into the main combustion chamber, assisted by turbulence created in the chamber. This system allows for a smoother, quieter running engine, and because combustion is assisted by turbulence, injector pressures can be lower, about 100 bar (10 MPa; 1,500 psi), using a single orifice tapered jet injector. Mechanical injection systems allowed high-speed running suitable for road vehicles (typically up to speeds of around 4,000 rpm). The pre-chamber had the disadvantage of increasing heat loss to the engine's cooling system, and restricting the combustion burn, which reduced the efficiency by 5–10 percent.^[34] Indirect injection engines are cheaper to build and it is easier to produce smooth, quiet-running vehicles with a simple mechanical system. In road-going vehicles most prefer the greater efficiency and better controlled emission levels of direct injection. Indirect injection diesels can still be found in the many ATV diesel applications.^{[citation needed]}

Direct injection

Direct injection diesel engines have injectors mounted at the top of the combustion chamber. The injectors are activated using one of two methods - hydraulic pressure from the fuel pump, or an electronic signal from an engine controller.
Hydraulic pressure activated injectors can produce harsh engine noise. Fuel consumption was about 15 to 20 percent lower than indirect injection diesels. The extra noise was generally not a problem for industrial uses of the engine. But for automotive usage, buyers had to decide whether or not the increased fuel efficiency would compensate for the extra noise.
Electronic control of the fuel injection transformed the direct injection engine

Fuel delivery DIESEL

Fuel delivery

A vital component of all diesel engines is a mechanical or electronic governor which regulates the idling speed and maximum speed of the engine by controlling the rate of fuel delivery. Unlike Otto-cycle engines, incoming air is not throttled and a diesel engine without a governor cannot have a stable idling speed and can easily overspeed, resulting in its destruction. Mechanically governed fuel injection systems are driven by the engine's gear train.^[25] These systems use a combination of springs and weights to control fuel delivery relative to both load and speed.^[25] Modern electronically controlled diesel engines control fuel delivery by use of an electronic control module (ECM) or electronic control unit (ECU). The ECM/ECU receives an engine speed signal, as well as other operating parameters such as intake manifold pressure and fuel temperature, from a sensor and controls the amount of fuel and start of injection timing through actuators to maximise power and efficiency and minimise emissions. Controlling the timing of the start of injection of fuel into the cylinder is a key to minimizing emissions, and maximizing fuel economy (efficiency), of the engine. The timing is measured in degrees of crank angle of the piston before top dead centre. For example, if the ECM/ECU initiates fuel injection when the piston is 10 degrees before TDC, the start of injection, or timing, is said to be 10° BTDC. Optimal timing will depend on the engine design as well as its speed and load.
Advancing the start of injection (injecting before the piston reaches to its SOI-TDC) results in higher in-cylinder pressure and temperature, and higher efficiency, but also results in elevated engine noise and increased oxides of nitrogen (NO_x) emissions due to higher combustion temperatures. Delaying start of injection causes incomplete combustion, reduced fuel efficiency and an increase in exhaust smoke, containing a considerable amount of particulate matter and unburned hydrocarbons.