HOW TO DRIFT

1. Set up a cone in the middle of a safe area of tarmac. Drive up to the cone and rip the handbrake in an attempt to do a 180 degree handbrake turn. Practice this until you are no more, and no less than 180 degrees from when you started.
   
   
2. Learn how to counter-steer by ripping the handbrake from a speed of 30-40mph (anything less will cause an inadequate amount of momentum to get you around the cone) and trying to control the car to a destination until the car stops.
3. Increase speed of each of these things until you are comfortable
4. Try to do the 180 cone too.

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive and Manual Transmission

1. Find a car with both rear-wheel-drive and a manual transmission. Ideally it should be a sports car with as close to a 50/50 ratio as possible, and enough power to keep the tires spinning is ideal.
2. Head to an open area (i.e. an enclosed racetrack) safely free of pedestrians and motorists and police!

Hand brake technique

1. Accelerate and shift into a gear with room to rev. Second gear is generally used because it allows the widest variance of speed and is best for harnessing the engine's torque.
2. Push in the clutch.
3. Flick the steering wheel to the inside of the turn as if you were going to turn around it. While simultaneously pulling the hand brake.
4. Immediately put some pressure on the gas pedal, let out the clutch, and steer the car in the direction of the slide, using throttle to control the angle of the drift.
5. More Throttle will make the car turn more, and also move the car away from the turn center.
6. Less throttle will reduce angle, and allow the car to move towards the inside of the turn more freely.
7. You're drifting!

Clutch Kick technique

1. Used while you are already moving to increase angle and/or revive wheel spin.
2. While you are drifting, you may feel the car begin to lose its drift angle and power. If this happens, you can kick the clutch to attempt to revive to tires spinning speed. This is similar to powershifting, and you are in essence trying to 'chirp' the tires again and again.
3. Enter a drift.
4. while you still have the power put on, kick the clutch pedal in and out a few times as fast as you can until the car is drifting again.
5. end with your foot off of the pedal.
6. continue the drift, and when you feel the car begin to lose angle/power try to clutch kick again.

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Auto

1. Find a large, open area.
2. Accelerate to a speed of 20-30(depending on lot size and room)
3. If possible, lock the transmission into a low gear to provide maximum torque
4. Turn the wheel hard and floor it. You should feel the rear end slide around if this is done correctly. Only use full throttle to start the drift, after this you should use proper throttle control to continue through the corner.

Preparing to Drift with a Front Wheel Drive Car

1. Go to a large, open area.
2. Pull the handbrake or use the parking brake, riding it out the first time or two to get over your initial fear.
3. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot.
4. Drive up to it at speed (between 20 and 30 is desired).
5. Pull the hand brake and turn toward the cone. Immediately after you feel the back end come around, turn to the opposite direction. This is known as opposite lock.
6. Repeat the opposite lock at that speed until you can control your car well. Practice this for at least several weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do this on roadways. It is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)
7. Slowly increase speed until you are proficient in a speed you are comfortable with. Get to know that speed--you should never drift above that speed unless you are practicing.
8. Upgrade. At the same initial speed, flick the steering wheel opposite of the turn and swing it all the way into toward the CONE (not turn, you aren't ready at this stage). As before, when you feel the rear end come around, go to opposite lock.

Drifting with a Front Wheel Drive Car

1. Approach a turn at a comfortable speed, preferably in mid 2nd gear.
2. Pull the handbrake while turning into the corner, try not to lock the rear wheels.
3. You should still have the power on, try not to go less than 1/2 throttle at any time during the drift.
4. When you feel the car start to understeer, and lose angle, pull the ebrake harder.
5. When the car seems to turn too much, give it progressively more throttle, and release the handbrake some.
6. Don't tense up, just feel it.

Top ten basic diesel engine maintenance secrets

When it comes to maintenance how do diesel engine compare? Shown are some important highlights below.
1.) Unlike the gas engines, diesel engine has no electrical ignition parts like plugs, wires and moving part like distributor rotor which is subject to wear. These parts have a limited life and have to be changed on regular basis. Because of this, this is one chore we don’t have to worry about.
2.) Diesel engines run at higher compression pressure than gasoline engines. Where the highest compression for most high performance gasoline engines is close to 200 psi, diesel runs almost 3 times that pressure. As a consequence, more heat is generated putting extra demands on the engine cooling system. Study shows diesel engines usually fail 50% more on cooling related problems because it cannot stand prolong overheating. This is why the cooling system is a high maintenance issue.
3.) Gaskets on diesel on engines must be monitored closely since they are exposed to extreme operating conditions. If possible, all mounting bolts must be re-torque at regular intervals to prevent leaks especially in the combustion mounting areas. This is also true for coolant hoses which can deteriorate quickly if not secured properly. A lot of this is also caused by engine vibrations which is common on diesel engines. Always replace a leaky gasket as a set. If one starts to leak, the rest is not far behind.
4.) Since diesel engines use a lot of air, greater attention is paid to the engine air filtration. A common practice among truckers is to install a tell tale plastic indicator on the side of the air filter housing. The indicator changes color as soon as the engine filter element becomes dirty. Cooling this air is also critical especially if the engine is turbocharged. On some high end diesel engines they are fitted with after coolers to cool the air from turbo charger.
5.) The oil filter selection is very important on diesel engines because of the bad elements of sulfur residue and carbon created when fuel is not burn completely. The filter used must meet or exceed the OEM filter recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. This will ensure that all corrosive particles are removed from the oil. Using synthetic oil will also help because the additives in the oil will resist premature breakdown.
6.) Since the cooling system is critical on diesel engines, it is important that an early warning system should be in placed. Located in the dash panel, the early warning device must be easily seen and heard. If the engine has already overheated and it was not caught on time, the engine could be damaged. Most trucks have this feature in their dash and must be checked regularly to see if early warning system works.
7.) The fuel system maintenance is handled in various ways. Always keep the fuel tank full to prevent condensation from building inside the tank which can end up in the fuel injectors. This also requires changing the fuel filters as recommended to prevent moisture build up. Some diesel engines use 2 types of fuel filters to control the presence of moisture in the engine. Some fuel tanks are also design with one way breather vents for the moisture to escape. This vent should be checked occasionally if there is a suspicion that it is restricted.
8.) Diesel engine has very little carbon monoxide, a poisonous gas common to gasoline engines. However, it produces a lot of black soot which is the result of incomplete combustion. Most of this is caused by dirty injectors and faulty injection timing that inject too much fuel. To ward this off, glow plugs are use to heat the combustion chamber to assist in burning the fuel. These glow plugs must be checked especially before winter season.
9.) During winter, diesel engines are normally hard to start and the best way to remedy this is to install an electrical heater to the cylinder block. Another way is to install a heater element in series with the heater hose. In extreme cases of hard starting, a starting fluid is sprayed on combustion chamber but use it sparingly to prevent scoring the cylinder walls at higher rpm.
10.) To prevent engine cylinder block scoring, avoid prolong idle of your diesel engines. A very common habit among drivers especially in winter... diesel engines are made to idle for long hours to keep the cab warm. When diesel engines are run longer in cold temperatures, insufficient lubrication to the piston wall is the result which might lead to piston scoring. It is better off shutting it down and having it plugged in to a coolant heater which is a common practice used for gasoline vehicles in Canada.
With the cost of fuel rising with no end in sight, diesel engine is a good alternative to gasoline engines that must be considered. Knowing the basic diesel engine maintenance is essential if you want to save money in vehicle operation and cost.

DIRECT AND INDIRECT INJECTION DIESEL

Indirect injection

Main article: Indirect injection

An indirect injection diesel engine delivers fuel into a chamber off the combustion chamber, called a pre-chamber or ante-chamber, where combustion begins and then spreads into the main combustion chamber, assisted by turbulence created in the chamber. This system allows for a smoother, quieter running engine, and because combustion is assisted by turbulence, injector pressures can be lower, about 100 bar (10 MPa; 1,500 psi), using a single orifice tapered jet injector. Mechanical injection systems allowed high-speed running suitable for road vehicles (typically up to speeds of around 4,000 rpm). The pre-chamber had the disadvantage of increasing heat loss to the engine's cooling system, and restricting the combustion burn, which reduced the efficiency by 5–10 percent.^[34] Indirect injection engines are cheaper to build and it is easier to produce smooth, quiet-running vehicles with a simple mechanical system. In road-going vehicles most prefer the greater efficiency and better controlled emission levels of direct injection. Indirect injection diesels can still be found in the many ATV diesel applications.^{[citation needed]}

Direct injection

Direct injection diesel engines have injectors mounted at the top of the combustion chamber. The injectors are activated using one of two methods - hydraulic pressure from the fuel pump, or an electronic signal from an engine controller.
Hydraulic pressure activated injectors can produce harsh engine noise. Fuel consumption was about 15 to 20 percent lower than indirect injection diesels. The extra noise was generally not a problem for industrial uses of the engine. But for automotive usage, buyers had to decide whether or not the increased fuel efficiency would compensate for the extra noise.
Electronic control of the fuel injection transformed the direct injection engine

Fuel delivery DIESEL

Fuel delivery

A vital component of all diesel engines is a mechanical or electronic governor which regulates the idling speed and maximum speed of the engine by controlling the rate of fuel delivery. Unlike Otto-cycle engines, incoming air is not throttled and a diesel engine without a governor cannot have a stable idling speed and can easily overspeed, resulting in its destruction. Mechanically governed fuel injection systems are driven by the engine's gear train.^[25] These systems use a combination of springs and weights to control fuel delivery relative to both load and speed.^[25] Modern electronically controlled diesel engines control fuel delivery by use of an electronic control module (ECM) or electronic control unit (ECU). The ECM/ECU receives an engine speed signal, as well as other operating parameters such as intake manifold pressure and fuel temperature, from a sensor and controls the amount of fuel and start of injection timing through actuators to maximise power and efficiency and minimise emissions. Controlling the timing of the start of injection of fuel into the cylinder is a key to minimizing emissions, and maximizing fuel economy (efficiency), of the engine. The timing is measured in degrees of crank angle of the piston before top dead centre. For example, if the ECM/ECU initiates fuel injection when the piston is 10 degrees before TDC, the start of injection, or timing, is said to be 10° BTDC. Optimal timing will depend on the engine design as well as its speed and load.
Advancing the start of injection (injecting before the piston reaches to its SOI-TDC) results in higher in-cylinder pressure and temperature, and higher efficiency, but also results in elevated engine noise and increased oxides of nitrogen (NO_x) emissions due to higher combustion temperatures. Delaying start of injection causes incomplete combustion, reduced fuel efficiency and an increase in exhaust smoke, containing a considerable amount of particulate matter and unburned hydrocarbons.

DIESEL

The diesel internal combustion engine differs from the gasoline powered Otto cycle by using highly compressed hot air to ignite the fuel rather than using a spark plug (compression ignition rather than spark ignition).
In the true diesel engine, only air is initially introduced into the combustion chamber. The air is then compressed with a compression ratio typically between 15:1 and 22:1 resulting in 40-bar (4.0 MPa; 580 psi) pressure compared to 8 to 14 bars (0.80 to 1.4 MPa) (about 200 psi) in the petrol engine. This high compression heats the air to 550 °C (1,022 °F). At about the top of the compression stroke, fuel is injected directly into the compressed air in the combustion chamber. This may be into a (typically toroidal) void in the top of the piston or a pre-chamber depending upon the design of the engine. The fuel injector ensures that the fuel is broken down into small droplets, and that the fuel is distributed evenly. The heat of the compressed air vaporizes fuel from the surface of the droplets. The vapour is then ignited by the heat from the compressed air in the combustion chamber, the droplets continue to vaporise from their surfaces and burn, getting smaller, until all the fuel in the droplets has been burnt. The start of vaporisation causes a delay period during ignition and the characteristic diesel knocking sound as the vapour reaches ignition temperature and causes an abrupt increase in pressure above the piston. The rapid expansion of combustion gases then drives the piston downward, supplying power to the crankshaft.^[24] Engines for scale-model aeroplanes use a variant of the Diesel principle but premix fuel and air via a carburation system external to the combustion chambers.
As well as the high level of compression allowing combustion to take place without a separate ignition system, a high compression ratio greatly increases the engine's efficiency. Increasing the compression ratio in a spark-ignition engine where fuel and air are mixed before entry to the cylinder is limited by the need to prevent damaging pre-ignition. Since only air is compressed in a diesel engine, and fuel is not introduced into the cylinder until shortly before top dead centre (TDC), premature detonation is not an issue and compression ratios are much higher.

STASIUN LEMPUYANGAN

Stasiun Lempuyangan adalah salah satu stasiun kereta api yang berada di Yogyakarta. Stasiun ini diresmikan pada tanggal 2 Maret 1872 oleh Pemerintah Hindia Belanda. Peresmian stasiun ini sekaligus menandakan masuknya kereta api pertama kali di kota Yogyakarta. Hal tersebut menunjukkan bahwa Stasiun Lempuyangan adalah stasiun kereta api yang paling tua di kota Yogyakarta. Stasiun ini pertama berdiri di Yogyakarta, baru 15 tahun kemudian diresmikan Stasiun Tugu.

Pada awalnya rute kereta api yang ada hanya meliputi Yogyakarta sampai Semarang. Sampai pada akhirnya seiring perkembangan jaman rute semakin bertambah dan meluas keseluruh wilayah Jawa seperti yang dapat kita nikmati sekarang. hampir seluruh wilayah di pulau Jawa telah terhubung dengan rel-rel kereta api yang membentang panjang menghubungkan kota-kota di Pulau Jawa.

Sampai saat ini Stasiun Lempuyangan dikenal sebagai stasiun kereta api kelas ekonomi. Artinya stasiun ini melayani kereta-kereta kelas ekonomi. Namun demikian tidak dapat kita pungkiri latar belakang sejarah dari keberadaan stasiun kereta api yang cukup berperan besar bagi awal munculnya kereta api di Yogyakarta.

Jika anda ingin bepergian keluar kota dengan kereta ekonomi anda bisa langsung datang ke stasiun ini. Apabila anda tidak bepergian ketika musim liburan atau mudik, anda tidak perlu memesan tiket kereta api karena tiket biasanya tersedia banyak dan dapat dibeli kapan saja. Selalu berhati-hatilah ketika anda menggunakan transportasi kereta ekonomi.

PELUNCURAN MB OH 1526

Selasa 7 Juni 2011, untuk pertama kalinya chassis OH-1626 dipamerkan didepan para pengusaha PO dipabrik Mercedes-Benz Indonesia Wanaherang - Gunung Putri Bogor. Dari pihak Mercedes-Benz diwakili oleh marketing MBIna divisi Bis, dua orang bule dari Mercedes-Benz International dan para engineer MBIna yang terkait dengan proses pengembangan dan produksi OH-1626.

Sebelum melihat langsung chassisnya, saya sempat menyangka OH-1626 akan sama persis dengan OH-1526 kecuali beda suspensinya. Dengan kata lain, perkiraan saya OH-1626 adalah OH-1526 yang diberi airsuspension. Ternyata dugaan saya salah besar. Chassis OH-1626 dari segi typenya memang sama dengan chassis OH-1526, sama-sama memakai type "Ladder frame with a rear lower module fastened  by screw" atau chassis ladder frame yang pada bagian modul belakang (engine compartement) dibuat lebih rendah dari chassis utama dan disambung dengan baut.

Tapi panjang kedua chassis tersebut jauh berbeda ...
Jika OH-1526 panjangnya 11.500mm, OH-1626 ini hanya sekitar 8550mm. Jika OH-1526 sudah siap langsung dipasang body, OH-1626 harus dimodifikasi dulu oleh body builder/karoseri. Chassis OH-1626 harus dipotong !!!

Kenapa mesti dipotong?
Begini ... Panjang total chassis OH-1626 hanya 8850mm. Artinya untuk dibuat  menjadi bis besar dengan panjang 11-12 meter kan harus ditambah panjangnya. Karena bagian tengah chassis OH-1626 tidak ada sambungan sama sekali alias utuh, berarti untuk menambah panjang caranya ya harus dipotong. Chassis OH-1626 hanya terdiri dari 2 bagian yang bisa dipisah, yaitu chassis utama yang memanjang utuh dari depan sampai kebelakang rear axle, serta chassis untuk dudukan mesin. Keduanya disambung dengan baut. Sama persis modelnya dengan chassis OH-1526, OH-1521 Euro3 dan OH-1518 Euro3. Bedanya, chassis OH-1526, OH-1521 Euro3 dan OH-1518 Euro3 panjangnya sudah diatas 11meter sehingga sudah siap diberi body. Kalau chassis OH-1626 panjanganya hanya 8850mm. Itulah sebabnya dibagian tengah harus dipotong dulu lalu ditambah dengan spaceframe untuk baggage compertement.

Kalo gitu kenapa mesti dibuat pendek?
Itu yang memang sering ditanyakan. Kalo nantinya dipanjangkan, kenapa gak dibuat langsung panjang?
Jadi gini ..
1. Chassis pendek lebih flexible untuk dibuat bis mau seberapa panjangnya, sebatas masih sesuai dengan spesifikasi teknisnya. Tidak semua negara memiliki aturan yg sama dalam hal panjang maksimal bis. Ada yg 12 meter, ada yang kurang, ada juga sedikit negara yg memperbolehkan lebih. Dg membuat jadi pendek MB tidak perlu membuat banyak varian panjang chassis.
2. Chassis pendek relatif lebih mudah diangkut dan tidak memakan banyak tempat, khususnya untuk proses impor/expor dari negara produsen ke negara konsumen.

Yang masih menjadi pertanyaan saya, kenapa Mercedes-Benz tidak menyediakan sambungan yang siap pakai seperti chassis SCANIA K-Series agar pihak body builder tidak perlu melakukan pemotongan chassis. Menurut engineer MBIna, Spaceframe untuk baggage compartement OH-1626 ini nantinya disediakan oleh body builder, tapi dengan spesifikasi material yang sudah ditentukan oleh Mercedes-Benz. Jika SCANIA memiliki opsi menyediakan sambungan chassis untuk baggage compartement, maka Mercedes-Benz tidak. Inilah saatnya kita melihat body builder membuat bis yang selama ini dikenal dengan istilah "sasis potong" yang diakui secara resmi oleh ATPM tanpa ancaman hilangnya warranty.
''BISMANIA COMMUNITY''

LAWANG SEWU

Lawang Sewu merupakan sebuah gedung di Semarang, Jawa Tengah yang merupakan kantor dari Nederlands-Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij atau NIS. Dibangun pada tahun 1904 dan selesai pada tahun 1907. Terletak di bundaran Tugu Muda yang dahulu disebut Wilhelminaplein.
Masyarakat setempat menyebutnya Lawang Sewu (Seribu Pintu) dikarenakan bangunan tersebut memiliki pintu yang sangat banyak. Kenyataannya, pintu yang ada tidak sampai seribu. Bangunan ini memiliki banyak jendela yang tinggi dan lebar, sehingga masyarakat sering menganggapnya sebagai pintu (lawang).
Bangunan kuno dan megah berlantai dua ini setelah kemerdekaan dipakai sebagai kantor Djawatan Kereta Api Repoeblik Indonesia (DKARI) atau sekarang PT Kereta Api Indonesia. Selain itu pernah dipakai sebagai Kantor Badan Prasarana Komando Daerah Militer (Kodam IV/Diponegoro) dan Kantor Wilayah (Kanwil) Kementerian Perhubungan Jawa Tengah. Pada masa perjuangan gedung ini memiliki catatan sejarah tersendiri yaitu ketika berlangsung peristiwa Pertempuran lima hari di Semarang (14 Oktober - 19 Oktober 1945). Gedung tua ini menjadi lokasi pertempuran yang hebat antara pemuda AMKA atau Angkatan Muda Kereta Api melawan Kempetai dan Kidobutai, Jepang. Maka dari itu Pemerintah Kota Semarang dengan Surat Keputusan Wali Kota Nomor. 650/50/1992, memasukan Lawang Sewu sebagai salah satu dari 102 bangunan kuno atau bersejarah di Kota Semarang yang patut dilindungi.
Saat ini bangunan tua tersebut telah mengalami tahap konservasi dan revitalisasi yang dilakukan oleh Unit Pelestarian benda dan bangunan bersejarah PT Kereta Api Persero
'' wikipedia''

berharap ujian kayak gini

disandur dr komik masdimboy

seni ngebut di pantura

Supir bis biasanya punya "bahasa" khusus menggunakan isyarat lampu / sen / klakson,

saat sein kiri dinyalakan (pengecualian utk belok kiri)
# Bila ada yg overtaking dr dpn memberi tau kendaraan dpn bahwa
posisi nya sudah berada pd sisi paling kiri (maaf bukan mempersilakan
msk buat kendaraan di dpn nya...), itu sebabnya kendaraan yg crash dr
dpn akan segera mengambil lajur yg sbnr nya klo gak dikasih oleh
kendaraan yg disalip biasanya memaksa msk alias dipepet abiz....
# Memberikan signal buat kendaraan di belakangnya agar posisi
nya tidak melebihi sisi paling kanan bis tsb atau dgn kata lain bodi
sebelah kanan maksimal sejajar dgn bodi kanan bis tsb. Krn pd umumnya
driver sll agak condong kekanan utk mempunyai ruang pandang yg cukup
swaktu bermaksud overtaking.

lebih kurang nya memang bgt dan pendapat tmn2 jg betul yg ptg jgn sampe
terbalik membaca nya krn bs fatal. Mestinya rule pantura ini lebih
disosialisasikan misalnya melalui defensive driving ya... agar tidak
punya persepsi sendiri2 shg bs membuat celaka bagi "warga pantura baru"
terutama mlm hari dan yg jelas qta acungi jempol buat penggagas rule yg
blm didokumentasikan tp sudah banyak yg mematuhinya. Salut buat driver2
bis mlm yg sll rajin nge sein dgn mengdepankan kepentingan kendaraan
lain...

Sebagai tambahan informasi, kalau kita mengerti isyarat lampu sein
kiri tsb, misalnya kita berada di urutan belakang 5 bus malam.
Jika pada posisi berpapasan (istilah driver :'crash') bus urutan 1
akan menyalakan sein kiri, diikuti bus 2 dst-nya sehingga bus paling
belakang akan waspada bahwa bus 1 sedang posisi 'crash'. Ini sangat
membantu iring-iringan pada jalan penuh tikungan, mis : Alas Roban.
Biasanya hazzard lamp (istilah driver : Lampu segitiga, karena pada MB
tombolnya merah dan berlabel segitiga putih) digunakan dalam situasi
darurat, berhenti mendadak, masuk RumahMakan atau SPBU.
Salah satu sopan santun di Bus Malam adalah dilarang menyalip dengan
lampu dim/lampu besar.

Dari pengalaman saya menjalani Pantura, paling safe adalah berjalan
dibelakang Bus malam yang rajin menyalakan lampu sein...

Maklum mas satu perguruan. tapi kalo di tol pas hujan
kadang ada yang konyol. Nggak semua sih, cuma satu dua
aja. Kalo pas hujan deras malah nyalain hazard. kalo
gini mau ngekor susah. tu bis jadi gak keliatan mau
goyang ke mana. Mo ke kiri or kanan, hanya sopirnya
dan Tuhan yang tahu

Dalam kebudayaan para bus driver… budaya mereka klo bs ngejar tmn yg dpn biasanya gak disalip tp didorong pake “ngedim” hehehe…. Hal lain misalnya…klo pas di jalur 4 yg gak ada trotoar tengah nya, pas mo nyalip tp ada truk pasir ato container di dpn nya, caranya nya gak asal msk tp bagian dpn “ngegras” sedikit nongol kasih tau dulu… bgt truk nya ada indikasi minggir ke kiri baru dech dimasukin… trus setiap ketemu 2 lajur klo pas dibelakang bis yg ngerti (krn Sinar Jaya, Dew Sri, apalagi Luragung hampir jarang melakukan nya) biasanya kasih sen kiri klo papasan dgn kendaraan di dpn nya…
kalo untuk dim biasanya untuk minta jalan (mau nyalip), atau juga isyarat terimakasih (2 kali dim pendek / 1x klakson pendek)
setelah diberi jalan untuk menyalip.

untuk lampu sen, ada macam2:
- kalo berpapasan dgn kendaraan di depannya, menghidupkan lampu sen kiri itu bisa :
# a. memberitahu kendaraan yg berpapasan dgn kita bahwa kita tetap di jalur kita (susah njelasinnya )
# b. kita mau ngalah untuk mobil yg berpapasan dgn kita, contoh kalo kita lagi di blong dari depan, sen kiri berarti
kita ngalah , silahkan mobil depan ngeblong
# c. kita kasi tau mobil di belakang kita bahwa di depan kosong dan silahkan menyalip kalo mau (dan kalo bisa )
# d. mau belok kiri .. ya iyaaallaaaahhhh ....

- kalo papasan dan kita idupin sen kanan , bisa:
# a. kita kasi tau ke mobil yg papasan dgn kita batas kanan kita seberapa, ini di gunakan biasanya di jalan yg kelok2,
atau jalan yang sempit.
# b. memberitahu mobil dari depan bahwa kita tidak mau di blong ...
# c. kita memberitahu mobil di belakang kita bahwa di depan ada mobil yg papasan, jadi jangan nyalip!

"bahasa" ini bener2 tergantung dengan kondisi dan pemahaman pengemudi ..

tapi emang ada kode etik tertentu yang berlaku pada pengemudi, yang berhubungan dengan toleransi berkendara.

pernah naek bis yang nempel ketat bis depannya? nah pada saat bis didepan kita menyalip dan bis kita ngikut nyalip,
bis depan kita biasanya setelah nyalip langsung ambil kiri, ini gunanya biar bis kita (atau bis yang dibelakang dia) bisa
ngeliat apa yang ada di depannya, jadi memberi ruang tembak eh ruang pandang ..

Hati-hati kalo suka ngekor (kesenengan gw banget nee kalo lagi touring di Pantura ), mendingan klo mau ngekor suka bermain sama sein-sein begitu kita ikut ngekor dan ternyata kita tekor.....gak dapet, dibukain jalan dulu deh....sama mereka, asal kita juga ikut
pake sein ala mereka..

mending ngalah biar kita selamat sampai di rumah. Ga usah dilawan kalo sein kanan bis sdh kedap kedip kepala agak serong ke kanan pertanda dia ingin mendahului kendaraan di depan nya. Kalo memang dirasa ada ruang untuk kita bisa menepi kenapa tidak? Nyawa dan keluarga lebih berharga lho mas...

Tips aman berada di belakang bis, disamping kita memperhatikan
tanda-tanda sein / signal adalah MENJAGA JARAK AMAN itu aja kuncinya
Kalo memang mau menuruti hawa nafsu, kita harus berpikir dan
mempertimbangkan seberapa safety nya kendaraan yg kita bawa dr mulai
akslerasi, rem dan kekuatan mesin kita untuk bisa mendahului / meng
ekor bis yg berada di depan kita.

Yang penting konsentrasi dan patuhi rambu2 jalan.
Perlu diingat bhw sopir2 bus malam itu memang hidupnya di jalan dan
hmpr tiap hari lewat jalan yg sama jadi tentu beda "feeling" sm
"touch" nya dgn kita2 yg "newbie".

Hal2 tertentu memang perlu dicontoh tp msh bnyk hal yg perlu
diperbaiki dari sikap berlalulintas bus2 malam.
Satu lagi....ngalah kadang2 perlu...bahkan bus2 jg sering ngalah klo
di"blong" baik searah ataupun head-on. Gak baik trlalu ngikutin nafsu.